African roots and urban struggle
While Indigenous communities battle for the right to self-determination on traditional lands which are largely rural, the vast majority of the Brazilian population lives in cities. (The country is highly urbanised with an estimated 87% of its population living in cities.)
Inequality is built into the fabric of Brazil’s cities, especially the megacities of São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro. While the elite tend to congregate in historic central districts (think Rio’s Copacabana Beach and São Paulo’s Avenida Paulista), the poor are relegated to enormous peripheral areas, far from jobs and opportunities. This divide between rich and poor can be easily seen from the air. What’s harder to see are the organisations working to create safe, thriving communities in liminal spaces, to occupy abandoned buildings and uplift these areas’ residents.
Roberto Gomes dos Santos is tall, with lightning-quick Portuguese, peppered with carioca (Rio de Janeiro) slang. He’s the de facto leader (although he stresses that decisions are made collectively) at the Quilombo da Gamboa, an independent housing community within the walls of an abandoned salt depot in Rio de Janeiro. Just a few hundred metres away are the remains of Valongo Wharf, built in 1811 and estimated to be the disembarkation point for over 900,000 slaves.
“For me it was really this: a reunion with my roots, rediscovering my ancestry, the reunion with the African heritages left here, and the responsibility of maintaining this space that I am going to call a sacred place,” he said.
Roberto grew up in Rio’s North Zone, feeling detached and alienated like many others, far from the glitz of the beaches of Copacabana and the postcard-perfect views of the South Zone. In a chance encounter on a public bus, he heard about the concept of an Occupy – a way for residents to semi-legally occupy abandoned buildings. Soon he was living in the centre of the city, constructing homes and organising a vibrant, caring community much closer to jobs and public transport.
While clearing the land at the salt depot, Roberto actually dug up the remains of slaves, including one still wearing manacles. He figures that they were probably transporting salt from the port area to the depot when they died.
“When we started digging and we came across that, I said ‘damn’. I was stepping on it, you know? It was a spontaneous fear, very fast, but then it passed. [I said] I’m stepping on my people! I mean, me, a Black man, stepping on another Black man...”
Deciding to call his community an “urban quilombo”, he said, was a conscious choice to continue the tradition of communities (called quilombos) that were originally organised by freed and escaped slaves. They feature heavily in the culture and language of resistance within Brazil.
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