On arriving in Mytilene on the island of Lesbos, refugees, locals and tourists crowd the busy port. At first glance, we are indistinguishable. Young Syrian guys with backpacks could easily be mistaken for Turkish or Italian tourists. Cafés and restaurants are full and bustling.
Also immediately in view, however, are many, many small tents. Parks and public areas are full of people, families with young children and babies, sleeping outdoors. There is also a large crowd is congregated outside what I learned is the only registration centre on the island. The interactions between local shopkeepers and refugees I witnessed were calm and considerate, in spite of the language barriers.
The locals are well used to their island being a transit point and sell tents, food, toiletries, SIM cards, and onward travel to those who have the resources and papers to leave. Volunteers here have provided welcome for years in a remarkable display of solidarity, in spite of the impact of austerity on life for the locals.
